The best
Motorcycle Riding Club in New York's Hudson Valley. We are a local
chapter of
Southern Cruisers Riding Club
known as the
Mid Hudson
Chapter #424.
We ride mostly in the New York Hudson Valley region but often have multi
state tours. Our goal is to leisurely explore the country roads in New
York and its surrounding states. It is always
free
to join our chapter & the S.C.R.C. There are no dues or meeting you
must attend. We are a "no specific brand" riding club. We are motorcycle
enthusiasts who enjoy to ride. For more info click
HERE.
Just visiting
Click Here to be added to our mailing list. We will inform you
of our upcoming events.!
This video below is just for fun video editing combo.
Something for the boys.
43,717
2007 Year in Review.
The last 2 minutes is from a handle bar camera, very fast video from the
twisties of Bear Mt. & West Point.
242
Motorcycle
News & Info
November 13, 2009
Your Oil's Acid and Winter Storage
If your bike is going to sit over the winter, it's
generally regarded as a good idea to change its oil
before you put it in storage.
Without getting lost in
the details,
let's just say that burning fuel while you ride
creates acid byproducts that get absorbed into your
oil. And if your oil loses its ability to absorb
that acid, then the whole mess sits in your engine
over the winter, slowly eating away at the metal.
Topping off your gas tank is also a good idea to
keep rust at bay. Adding a fuel stabilizer to that
tank is a smart move as well because gasoline is
made up of organic ingredients that degrade over
time into
gummy
varnish that's deposited throughout your fuel system
as the gas is burned.
Motorcycle operators have many things to think about before
getting on their motorcycles. Weather, condition of road
surfaces, traffic patterns, riding gear, things to pack and
load, planned route of travel, frame of mind, and condition
of your motorcycle to name a few.
Sometimes, the adrenaline rush that comes with anticipating
the next ride and/or adventure overrides common sense or
attention to a pre-ride checklist. The pre-ride checklist
should include these ABCs:
A - Assess tire wear and tire pressure B - Be sure cables operate freely C - Check all lights and electrical system D - Determine that oil and coolant levels
are within normal parameters E - Ensure all of the motorcycle's parts
are secure
These are things that are already part of your motorcycle.
What about the things the rider, and possibly your
passenger, bring to load into or on the motorcycle: head
covers, jackets, bags, shirts, groceries, tools, maps,
cellphones, and purses? Are things loaded and secured in a
way that handling the motorcycle will not be adversely
affected?
LOAD IT LOW. LOAD IT TIGHT. KEEP IT BALANCED. AND BE SURE
NOTHING WILL COME LOOSE WHILE YOU RIDE!
One last thing: Test your brakes as you enter the roadway.
Safe riding,
ASSEMBLE TOGETHER AND RIDE
BEFORE YOU HEAD OUT ON THAT GROUP RIDE, HERE ARE SOME THINGS
YOU SHOULD KNOW
Unless you live in a southern state, it's that time of year
when not only the bears come out of hibernation, but bikers
on their motorcycles as well. There's nothing quite as much
fun as assembling a group of friends together for that first
ride in the Spring. For some, it may be their first time
back in the saddle since Fall. For others, it may only be a
few weeks or months. Regardless of how long it has been
since your bike has been out of the garage, there are some
things you should remember.
Your skills, or others in your group, may be a little rusty
on the first outing. Perhaps the group you are riding with
has not ridden together before. Be sure you understand
everyone's skill level before you head out.
Over the winter, roads may have deteriorated leaving sand,
ruts, and large potholes for you to navigate around.
Consider leaving additional distance between you and the
riders in front of you. That distance can help them better
manage their motorcycle around road hazards. It also
provides more time for the other rider to alert you to a
hazard or object in the road and for you to avoid it.
Be on the lookout for cagers. While your bike has been
resting in the garage, automobile drivers have forgotten how
to watch for motorcycles. Be especially careful when passing
vehicles and at intersections. May sure you are visible.
Position your bike so you can be seen. Wear reflective
clothing when possible. Always use your turn signals with
hand signals, and be sure to cancel your turn signal after a
lane change or turn.
For additional information on group
riding and carrying passengers, check out this article from
the Motorcycle Safety Foundation.
Americade offers free bike and
trike safety training
Americade Press Release - Mar 3,
2009 by
Cycle Matters
Americade, the world’s
largest motorcycle touring
rally, announces that they
will now offer free trike
safety training classes to
all registered Americaders. Bill
Dutcher, Americade
Founder said; "With the
growing number of trike
riders and the upswing in
trike conversions in the
motorcycle community,
there's a growing need for
effective
instruction. Currently,
Trike Riders International
offers an excellent, proven
trike instruction course, so
we are delighted to partner
with them."
The Trike Safety
Training is offered
through Trike Riders
International in
conjunction with the
GWRRA (Gold Wing Road
Riders Association). The
full day course will be
offered on two days. As
with all safety training
at Americade, the course
is free to registered
Americaders, but a fully
refundable $50 deposit
will be collected to
guarantee the rider’s
spot. This is the
perfect opportunity for
riders and co-riders to
sharpen their riding
skills.
These trike courses are
in addition to the MSF
Experienced RiderCourse
that is always offered
for registered
Americaders throughout
Americade Week. The
classes last 5-6 hours
and focus on managing
traction, quick braking,
and sharpening cornering
and swerving
skills. They also focus
on using strategies to
reduce risk as well as
honing mental skills for
traffic.
With over 50,000
expected to attend
Americade, classes will
surely fill
quickly. Class size for
both the ERC and Trike
Safety Training is
limited, and
participants must
pre-register for the
courses through the
Americade website.
This year, Americade
runs from June 1st-6th.
About Cycle Matters…
The staff of Cycle
Matters is interested in
your comments about this
article.
If you are already a
member of Cycle Matters,
click on “Comment” at
the end of this article
to add your comments.
You must be a member of
Cycle Matters to add
comments. Membership is
free!
To become a member,
click on My Garage,
input your profile, and
save it. You will
receive an e-mail
message asking you to
verify your membership
by clicking on the
enclosed link. As a
member of Cycle Matters,
you are able to post
your comments on this
and any other article on
this website. Log in and
share your thoughts with
the Cycle Matters
community of motorcycle
enthusiasts.
Honda
FURY "chopper" for 2010
Honda Motorcycle News Release-
Jan 21, 2009
On
Friday, January 16th at the New York International Motorcycle
Show, American Honda introduced to the world what many have
deemed the most radically styled production Honda ever built:
the 2010 Fury. The Fury radiates attitude and delivers a total
riding experience approaching the outer limits of motorcycling.
The Fury
opens the door to the most extreme level of custom looks. But
once you're rolling, the Fury experience is all about that
special bond between rider and machine: the unmistakable big
V-twin pulse, the characteristic Vee engine note and the
no-nonsense riding stance bring you back to the core elements of
riding.
Destined to
become a milestone machine, the Fury captures the pure,
undiluted chopper essence, places it within easy reach of nearly
every rider and then backs it up with the same quality and
reliability built into every Honda. It's a radical concept in a
unique package.
Click herefor
more information and images of the 2010 Fury.
Fury Key
Features:
Full-on chopper styling
Longest wheelbase ever in a production Honda
motorcycle
Muscular V-twin power, sound and feel
Clean looks, superior attention to detail
Spacious riding position
Low seat height
Single-shock rear suspension features "hard tail"
look
Extra-wide 200-series rear tire
Slim-look 21-inch front tire
Legendary Honda fit, finish and reliability
Unrivaled value
2010 Fury
Development Story
The process
of designing a new motorcycle always encompasses a huge array of
factors and considerations. A profusion of calculations,
measurements, specifications and more must be weighed, analyzed,
dissected and crunched together to yield the proper result.
However, one key factor that cannot be quantified in empirical
terms always comes into play: a passion for the machine. And at
Honda, our designers and engineers carry a passion for
motorcycles to the extreme. So when they get the green light to
give full force to such passions, some pretty wild things can
happen.
Welcome to
the wild side of Honda, where a passion for riding reigns
supreme in the stunningly creative 2010 Fury. Here we have a
machine packed with radical lines and a head-turning look, a
motorcycle destined to become a milestone machine. The Fury is
the offspring of people who get excited about creating new
motorcycles, enthusiasts who understand what it means to get
really involved with a machine. The Fury captures the pure,
undiluted chopper essence, a genre of motorcycle that simply
feels right, looks right and sounds right when it's done well,
rather than a precise formula that's captured with a micrometer
and calipers.
Choppers
have been a part of the motorcycling scene for decades, but for
the most part they've occupied a niche on the farthest edges of
the sport. The first such machines were cobbled-up home-builts
with a reputation for being crudely wrought and uncomfortable to
ride. Since then choppers have evolved into rolling art, with
true customs commanding a very high price. That's the beauty of
the Fury. Even though it looks like rolling art from the
two-wheeled world, it is backed up with the same functionality,
fit and finish, quality and reliability built into every Honda.
Tapping into
an extensive legacy of experience in building motorcycles of all
types, Honda's engineers devised a design and incorporated
technological advantages to make the Fury handle, function and
ride according to Honda standards. Although stunning and daring
in its visuals, the Fury is great fun to ride, with a look, feel
and sound that place the rider squarely in the chopper domain.
It's a Honda and you can use it like any other Honda, yet it
carries attitude and looks to the extreme.
Better yet,
this breakthrough motorcycle rests within easy reach of nearly
every rider; in terms of affordability the Fury does indeed
break new ground. It's a radical concept in a unique package, an
affordable combination never before offered to the average
motorcycle owner--until today.
The most
obvious attraction to the Fury centers on its raked-out chopper
styling: high-mount steering head that gives the frame a
see-through, open-air look with plenty of breathing room between
the tank/upper frame and the front cylinder head; slim and long
fuel tank perched up high; ultra-low 26.7-inch seat height;
big-time rake; fat 200-series rear tire paired with a slim
21-inch front wheel; a condensed, hard-tail look to the rear
end; and a stretched wheelbase. And that long wheelbase is no
illusion--the Fury stretches a full 71.2 inches between axles.
Perhaps equally important is that a close-up inspection of the
Fury reveals remarkably clean lines, a Spartan return to basics
plus superior attention to detail that together create the
distinct impression of a full-on hand-built custom bike, but at
a mere fraction of the cost.
In truth,
creation of the Fury posed a considerable challenge. This
ground-breaking concept had to strike a delicate balance. The
extended chopper look with its stretched wheelbase and
exaggerated steering rake combines with the stellar levels of
function that are part of every Honda. The design focus began
with the high steering head/pronounced steering rake/open look
in the front end and then radiated outward from there. With such
a visually stunning appearance, the final incarnation of the
Fury required a significant amount of communication and
cooperation between the styling team in the USA at Honda
Research Americas (HRA) and the Honda engineers at HGA in Japan.
Original sketches and clay mock-ups were tweaked and refined in
innumerable ways, leading to small but elegantly simple feats of
engineering wizardry that were performed to achieve the goal.
For example,
to maintain the remarkably uncluttered look between the front
cylinder and the front downtube/radiator area, the top radiator
hose is hidden away beneath the front valve cover--a patented
idea that illustrates the extreme efforts expended on
maintaining the airy look of the front end. Other examples are
the long, slim and voluptuous look of the fuel tank, which had
to be adjusted and modified repeatedly along with handlebar
shape and size to allow the appropriate amount of steering
clearance when the front wheel is turned from stop-to-stop. The
design of each separate element shares cascading effects with
other interrelated parts, resulting in a fluidity of design.
In similar
fashion, the rear end of the bike had to look just right, yet
still function like a Honda. The Fury incorporates a visual
balance of positive and negative space between the airy front
end and the more substantial engine and rear-end section; it may
not be instantly apparent to some onlookers, but the design
elements have been carefully integrated. The LED taillight was
selected specifically because it does not affect the shape of
the rear fender, which also lacks visible fender stays--all for
the purpose of giving the rear fender a simple, clean and
elegant shape.
In addition,
there's no need to fret about what appears to be a rigid
hard-tail rear end. Those sleek lines actually cloak an
ingenious single-shock rear suspension system with an aluminum
swingarm, adjustable rebound damping and five-position spring
preload adjustment for exemplary riding comfort--definitely far
and above the norm for a chopper-style motorcycle. Also, note
the remarkably clean lines given to the aluminum swingarm, and
the great efforts expended on bestowing smooth lines upon the
driveshaft on the left side.
Up front, a
stout 45mm fork handles suspension duties quite ably, and the
distinctive alloy wheels have a single powerful 336mm-diameter
front disc brake complemented by a 296mm brake disc in back.
Fire up the
engine and waves of muscular V-twin power, sound and feel--vital
elements that constitute the soul of the Fury--flood the senses.
There's a fuel-injection system that's new to Honda's proven and
muscular 1312cc liquid-cooled 52-degree V-twin with a single-pin
crankshaft and dual balancers. A newly designed exhaust system
and new camshafts also add to the creation of an engine that's
eminently satisfying in the performance department as well as
one that delivers the more intangible aesthetic sound and
power-pulse sensations Honda engineers wanted. Short version:
it's just plain cool to ride and hear this baby rumble.
With a full
line of accessories available upon its release, the Fury is also
positioned for additional customizing by owners who want to add
that personal touch.
The Fury
taps directly into the passion for riding; this is a machine
built for people who have always longed for a chopper-style
motorcycle. And for good reason--it's got to be the ultimate as
far as cool factor goes, a bike profile that's instantly known
and recognized. But this is also a chopper with a unique
difference: you can simply ride it and enjoy, without all of the
costs, compromises and headaches typically attached to such
machines.
The Fury is
a chopper that's also 100 percent Honda, with all the
performance and quality that the name implies.
Honda
Genuine Accessories: Note Fury Accessories are subject to change
Caring for your motorcycle
during hibernation By
Maverick - Oct 22, 2007
Care and maintenance of
a motorcycle during
extended non use is as
important to safe
operation as responsible
riding and handling. In
providing this
information, I assume
the motorcycle owner is
not driving the bike for
four to six weeks or
more. If this is
not the case, he/she
will want to adjust care
and maintenance
accordingly. I
consider a bike "in use”
if it is operated at
least every two weeks
(each week is better),
however, sitting for
four weeks will not
cause major operating
issues as long as it is
clean, dry, the tires
are rotated and inflated
properly, etc.
Following are the most
critical areas of winter
care or other extended
non-use of your
motorcycle.
These recommendations
are easily completed
by motorcycle
operators themselves,
however if in doubt,
make an appointment with
your local dealer or
trusted maintenance
provider. Always
use your Owner’s Manual
as a guide and remember;
the best way to care for
the inside of your bike
is to lube and oil
according to Owner’s
Manual recommendations
and start it and ride it
for 30 minutes every
week.
Keep your motorcycle
clean and dry.
I’ve learned that
commingled elements such
as road chemicals, oil,
gas, bugs, etc. and
moisture continue to
work or “ferment” while
you bike is at rest.
Keeping it clean and dry
removes most of the
critical elements and
minimizes the potential
damage to paint, chrome
and functionality.
Clean, seal and wax
painted surfaces.
Most motorcycle stores
have “waxes” and “detail
and wax” combinations
that they will
recommend. You can
also locate and purchase
a suitable option
on-line via your
favorite website.
Keep fuel tank full to
prevent collection of
moisture inside the
tank, and add gas
storage additive (can be
obtained from any MC
shop or on-line).
Care for your battery.
If you intend not to use
your bike for extended
periods, it is best to
remove the battery,
clean it using a cloth
and if you discover
corrosion, clean posts
and corroded area with
baking soda and water.
If you are using a
non-maintenance-free
battery and your battery
becomes low on
electrolyte fluid, make
sure you refill it with
distilled water.
Motorcycle storage
should be moisture free
and connected to a
battery tender.
Even if you do not store
your bike, connecting to
a battery tender is a
good idea throughout the
colder months because a
cold engine uses more
battery power to start
it.
Check pressure and
inflate/deflate tires to
recommended levels.
Consult your Owner’s
Manual.
Change your oil and oil
filter. This is
fairly easy to do but if
you value your time, you
may wish to schedule an
appointment with your
favorite dealer or
maintenance provider.
Check electrical system.
Any time you clean your
bike, it is wise to pay
attention to the
condition of
connections, wires and
electrical operation.
Cover your bike with a
cover (an old bed sheet
will do) that will allow
any moisture to
evaporate. Trapped
moisture will facilitate
corrosion, especially if
other elements
(chemicals) are present.
Store your pride and joy
in a location that does
not have significant
temperature swings and
that has low humidity.
Vapor barrier plus a 4’
X 8’ piece of carpet
(covering the vapor
barrier) is a good
combination to
neutralize moisture
transfer from the
ground/floor up.
The staff of Cycle
Matters is interested in
your comments about this
article. If you are
already a member of
Cycle Matters, click on
“Comment” at the end of
this article to add you
comments.
You must be a member of
Cycle Matters to add
comments. Membership is
free! Click on My
Garage, input your
profile, and save
it. You will receive an
e-mail message asking
you to verify your
membership by clicking
on the enclosed link. As
a member of Cycle
Matters, you are able to
post your comments on
this and any other
article on this
website. Log in and
share your thoughts with
the Cycle Matters
community of motorcycle
enthusiasts.
Indian Motorcycle launches
Factory Delivery Program Indian
Motorcycle Press Release - Jan
8, 2009
Indian Motorcycle announced
today its new Factory
Delivery Program which
allows customers to order a
motorcycle through an
authorized dealership and
pick it up at the factory.
All 2009 Indian Chiefs are
eligible for the new
delivery program. Factory
Delivery offers a personal
VIP tour of the factory and
world headquarters located
in Kings Mountain, N.C., 37
miles west of Charlotte.
The
VIP tour is given by a
member of the IMC staff who
guides participants through
each step of the bike
building process. Beginning
in engine assembly and
ending on the vehicle build
line, new owners get to
observe a team of craftsmen
building the next generation
of Indian Chief Motorcycles.
Orange County Choppers
MotoCoaster Darien
Lake Press Release - May 20,
2008
Darien Lake Theme Park
Resort, New York, announced
a strategic alliance with
New York based Orange County
Choppers (OCC). The
partnership, which is the
first theme park alliance
for OCC, includes naming
Darien Lake’s newest thrill
ride – a motorcycle themed
roller coaster - the Orange
County Choppers MotoCoaster.
OCC will also build a custom
bike inspired by the new
ride and overall Darien Lake
Theme Park Resort
experience.
The Teutuls, founders of
OCC, are slated to make
various appearances
throughout the season at
Darien Lake Theme Park
Resort. In June, the Teutuls
will return to the park to
unveil the finished custom
bike which will remain on
permanent display at Darien
Lake Theme Park Resort.
During the unveiling of the
custom Darien Lake chopper,
new themeing for the
re-named Orange County
Choppers MotoCoaster will
also be presented.
In addition, as part of
the alliance, Darien Lake
Theme Park Resort guests
will have the opportunity to
win an exclusive Orange
County Choppers production
bike, painted with a unique
Darien Lake design.
“We are excited to partner
with Orange County Choppers
as we present this first of
its kind roller coaster
experience to Western New
York,” said Christopher
Thorpe, Darien Lake’s
General Manager. “It is
truly an awesome partnership
for both organizations and a
great opportunity to have
fun with fans while
delivering a completely
unique ride experience.”
About
Orange County Choppers,
Inc.:
Paul Teutul, Sr.,
metalworker by trade and
founder of Orange County
Choppers, first began his
business of building custom
choppers out of the basement
of his home in Montgomery,
NY. With the creative help
and following of his oldest
son, Paul Jr., the two were
soon on their way to the top
with the success of Paul
Sr.’s first bike, “True
Blue” at Daytona
Biketoberfest in 1999. From
that point on, Paul Sr. knew
he had something and
established Orange County
Choppers that same year.
The Teutuls were quickly
becoming recognized by
chopper enthusiasts
everywhere. They were not
only making a name for
themselves in the custom
bike world, but were picked
up by the Discovery Channel
in 2002 as the basis of what
is now the hit television
series, American Chopper.
Their popularity has led
them to build custom theme
bikes for some of the
biggest names in corporate
America such as Intel,
Sunoco and Hewlett-Packard.
Today, Orange County
Choppers is regarded as one
of the world’s premier
builders of custom
motorcycles.
About
Darien Lake Theme Park
Resort:
Darien Lake Theme Park
Resort, owned and operated
by PARC Management, is New
York State’s largest theme
park and resort, located
between Buffalo and
Rochester, NY and just a
short drive from Niagara
Falls. The resort includes
three on-site lodging
choices including a 162-room
themed hotel, RV rental and
a 1,200 site campground.
With more than 100 rides,
shows and attractions, kids’
park, waterpark and a
20,000-capacity outdoor
concert venue, Darien Lake
is the family vacation
destination.
At the INTERMOT Cologne show, Triumph unveiled its new
Thunderbird cruiser to take on the Big Twins in America. Powered
by a 1599 DOHC Parallel Twin, the Thunderbird bridges the gap
between Triumph's smaller displacement cruisers and the mammoth
Rocket III.
The new Twin gets its displacement via a big 103.8 x 94.3mm bore
and stroke. Power claims on the new Thunderbird's spec sheet
claims "in excess of" 80 hp and 100 lb-ft of torque. Driving
that power to the rear wheel is a belt drive and six-speed
transmission. The all-new powerplant is liquid-cooled with fuel
injection.
The chassis includes cast aluminum five-spoke wheels mated to a
tubular steel frame and swingarm. Showa suspension components
are sourced – 47mm fork up front and chromed spring shocks out
back (shocks are five-position preload adjustable.)
Dual 310mm front rotors are pinched by 4-piston Nissin calipers,
with rear braking a single 310mm rotor teamed with a 2-piston
Brembo caliper. ABS will be available as an option for potential
customers.
A 5.5-gallon fuel tank also houses the instrument cluster, with
speedo, tach and LCD display. The Thunderbird will also utilize
self-cancelling turn signals.
Built to compete directly with the Twin Cam Harley-Davidson, the
new Triumph Thunderbird will be an important piece of the
American Triumph strategy.
"It's been obvious for many years to people that from the
American Speedmaster, there's a big gap between those bikes and
the Rocket III," said Simon Warburton, Triumph Head Product
Manager. "We see the future of the Thunderbird being a big part
of our range."
The base model will feature numerous accessories for
customization, including touring and two-up extras, as well as
cosmetic upgrades. American Trumpet fans will have to wait,
however, as the new Thunderbird is not slated for US shores
until September of 2009, making it a 2010 model. Pricing for the
US market is yet to be determined.
2010 Triumph Thunderbird Specs:
Engine: 1599cc liquid-cooled, DOHC, Parallel Twin, 270º firing
interval
Bore/Stroke: 103.8 x 94.3mm
Maximum Power In excess of 80 bhp
Maximum Torque In excess of 100 lb-ft
Fuel System: Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection
with SAI , progressive linkage on throttle
Final Drive: Toothed belt
Clutch: Wet, multi-plate
Gearbox: 6-speed constant mesh, helical type
Frame: Tubular steel, twin spine
Swingarm: Twin sided, steel
Front Wheel: Cast aluminium alloy 5-spoke 19 x 3.5 inch
Rear Wheel: Cast aluminium alloy 5-spoke 17 x 6 inch
Front Tire: 120/70 R19
Rear Tire: 200/50 R17
Front Suspension: Showa 47mm forks
Rear Suspension: Showa chromed spring twin shocks with
5-position-adjustable preload
Front Brakes: Twin 310mm fixed discs. Nissin 4-piston fixed
calipers
Rear Brakes: Single 310mm fixed disc. Brembo 2-piston floating
caliper
Instrument display/functions: Tank mounted instrumentation with
large speedo, integrated tacho and LCD display with odometer,
twin trip counters, range-to-empty and clock. Auto-cancelling
indicators
Length: 2350mm (92.5 in)
Width: (Handlebars) 947mm (37.2 in) (TBC)
Height: 1216mm (47.9 in) (TBC)
Seat Height: 702mm (27.6 in) (TBC)
Wheelbase: 1641mm (64.6in)
Rake/Trail: 32°/151.3mm
Dry Weight TBC
Fuel Tank Capacity: 21 litres (5.5 gal US)
Buying new motorcycle tires ain't what it used to be. In fact,
it can be downright intimidating if you're not up to date with
the current vernacular that surroundsmotorcycle
tires:
V or Z ratings, 180s, 240s, radial or bias ply, load indexes,
speed ratings - see what I mean? It's easy to get overwhelmed by
the wealth of information that's out there. So Motorcycle USA
wants to ease the pain of the process by offering a basic guide
for knowing when it's time to break open the wallet and come up
with a few dollars to throw down for some new treads.
Motorcycle tires are often ignored and underappreciated, which
isn't the smartest of decisions since they are the intermediary
between you and a face-full of asphalt. Even more than with
automobiles, running on the proper motorcycle tires are
paramount to safe transportation. The right tire can also mean
the difference between being crowned MotoGP World Champion or
settling for runner-up - just ask Valentino Rossi. Even if
you're not looking to drag a knee at Sepang, it's just as
imperative for the layman rider to keep their tires in the best
possible working condition.
Bridgestone, Michelin, Metzler, Dunlop and more... There's a lot
of tire ground to cover. So here it is. We're by no means
claiming to be the authority on tire selection and maintenance,
but we wanted to provide readers with some general guides and
answers to some of the FAQs when it comes time to slap on a set
of new rubbers.
How to Know When it's Time for a New Motorcycle Tire
It doesn't take a genius to know you need new motorcycle tires.
When your back end starts to feel a little loose in corners that
you've blasted through a hundred times before, it's time to
check your tread depth. Use the built-in tread wear indicators.
When the tire is worn down to the indicators that are set at
1/32nd inch (0.8 millimeters) or when the tread groove depth is
even less, it's time to change. Thin tires are penetrated by
nails and shrapnel much easier than ones with healthy tread. A
good way to gauge this is with a penny. Take a penny and stick
it upside down in the tread groove. The space between the edge
of the penny and the top of Lincoln's head is about 1/32nd of an
inch. If Lincoln needs a haircut, you need a new tire. If the
tire cord or fabric is exposed, the tire is dangerously worn and
must be replaced immediately.
It's also a good idea to inspect the conditions of your wheels
periodically. Bent rims may cause wheel wobble, bead unseating
and, in the case of tubeless tires, gradual air loss. Sudden
wheel failure may result from the use of cracked cast wheels.
Bent rims and bent or cracked cast wheels should be replaced
immediately.
Finally, inspect your tires for uneven wear. Wear on one side of
the tread or flat spots in the tread may indicate a problem with
the tire or motorcycle. Always heed warning signs such as
vibration, handling instability, rubbing or tire noise that
occurs during operation of the motorcycle. If this is the case,
it's best to contact your local dealer.
Off-Road -One
of the main differences between street anddirt
bike tiresis
in determining wear factor - you definitely don't want to get
your knobbies down to 1/32-inch! The most critical deciding
factor is personal feel. Technically you can run those knobbies
down to pathetic little nubbins, but the further they are worn,
the more susceptible they are to puncture and fatigue failure,
not to mention a lack of traction and safety. Once you can feel
the performance of your tire slipping - literally - then it's
time to start looking for a replacement. Keep in mind that some
rounding of the front edge can actually increase performance on
harder terrain, so don't go tossing a perfectly good tire if it
isn't biting right away. Most meats, however, are going to only
get worse with age and use. Some tires chunk or tear worse than
others, but watch the wear grooves in the center lugs to
indicate how abused the rubber is. If there aren't any grooves
left it's time to move on.
Motorcycle Tire Inflation
CHECKING TIRE PRESSURES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TIRE MAINTENANCE
FUNCTION YOU CAN PERFORM.
Why the capital letters? Because we can't stress this enough.
Check your tires' air pressure at least once a week and before
long trips. Be sure to use an accurate pressure gauge. Common
sense, you say? You'd be surprised.
Check air pressure when the tires are cold. Tires are cold when
a motorcycle has been ridden less than a mile at moderate speed
or after it has been sitting for three or more hours. Never
release air from a hot tire in order to reach the recommended
cold tire pressure. Normal riding causes tires to run hotter and
inflation pressure to increase. If you release air when your
tires are hot, you may under-inflate your tires to dangerous
levels.
If for some reason your tires are losing more than two psi per
month, the tire, valve, or wheel may be damaged. Have your local
dealer check it out. Always keep the air pressure in both tires
at the manufacturer's recommended psi. Your motorcycle owner's
manual will tell you this magic number. On some motorcycles, the
recommended front and rear tire pressures differ, and the
numbers stamped on the sidewall of the tire are often only for
maximum loads. Occasionally, these pressure numbers are the
manufacturer's recommended settings as well, but always check
your owner's manual first. Having the proper tire pressure
improves handling, gas mileage and keeps you safer in the
saddle.
Riding on underinflated motorcycle tires is dangerous for
several reasons. The tires will build excessive heat and can
cause sudden tire failure. Under inflation causes irregular
tread wear at the edge of the contact patch and may also damage
the tire beyond use. It will affect cornering, cause you to lose
precious gas mileage, and can cause fatigue cracking.
Riding on tires with too much air is equally as dangerous. The
tires are more likely to be cut, punctured, or broken by sudden
impact. Overinflating will cause the bike to ride hard and will
cause the tire to wear out quickly in the center of the contact
patch. Do not exceed the pressure indicated on the tire
sidewall. Consult your owner's manual for the recommended psi
and for other useful tidbits of info on your tires.
Never inflate a tire unless it is secured to the motorcycle or a
tire-mounting machine. Inflating an unsecured tire is dangerous
because if it bursts, it could be hurled into the air with
lethal force.
Another helpful hint is to use factory valve caps and to keep
valve cores clean and clear of debris to help guard against air
leakage. And while the chrome skull-shaped valve caps look cool,
it's better to keep the original caps on your valve stems
because the manufacturer's valves have a rubber gasket in the
top and will seal better. Valve caps not only keep debris and
water out of your valve stem, they keep the air in. Wheel
rotation can be enough to cause a valve core to open due to the
centrifugal force generated.
Motorcycle tires with non-repairable damage must not be used
again. This type of damage can be incurred by hard impacts,
penetrations or by continued use of an underinflated/overloaded
tire. Such types of damage are progressive and can cause sudden
and complete tire failure and result in an accident.
Off-Road -Most
of this holds true for off-road as well, but because of the dirt
world's changing terrain, tires can serve as more of a
ride-tailoring factor. Different rubber compounds and tread
patterns are critical to finding the ultimate traction whether
you ride in sand, mud, loam, blue-groove or any combination.
Most bikes come from the dealership with an intermediate tread
of some kind, which should work well enough to get you started.
Once that tire is shredded, keep in mind how it performed and
what your normal riding terrain is like before purchasing your
next meat. Bike and tire manufacturers provide recommended psi
figures, but in the dirt world they aren't necessarily the end
all be all.
Proper inflation depends entirely on where you are riding. High
speed, rocky terrain requires higher psi to avoid pinching tubes
and tacoed rims. However, leaving 18 pounds in after a weekend
desert ride and then hitting the muddy forest trails for a
mid-week outing will probably result in a soil sample. As a
general rule of thumb, 11-15 pounds will get you through most
terrain in suitable fashion, but don't be afraid to experiment
with the pressure a bit as you get more comfortable with your
tires. Just make sure to make slow and steady adjustments.
Elevation can also have an affect on inflation so it never hurts
to pack a pump before you head out to the mountains. Always be
sure to check your pressure and adjust it accordingly.
Another thing to keep in mind with off-road tires is the rim
lock, also called a bead lock. Since flats are more common
off-road, these little babies can mean the difference between
getting back to the truck or a long, miserable night. We like to
run our rim locks pretty stinkin' tight. Small punctures can
sometimes be fixed on the trail with patch kits or slime (though
this should only be used as a temporary fix to get you home),
but if the tire spins too violently on the rim it will tear the
stem out of the tube, and then there's no hope for a simple
repair. Make sure not to cinch the nut down so tight that it
damages the rim, but we like to give ours an extra little twist
just to make sure it's going to hold.
Wheel Balance & Alignment
You might think it's not as important to have motorcycle tires
balanced and aligned, but it is. Have your tire/wheel assemblies
balanced before using them and rebalanced each time the tire is
removed or replaced. Unbalanced tire/wheel assemblies can
vibrate at certain speeds, greatly accelerating tire wear. If
you take off your rear wheel or adjust the chain or belt, have
your tire balanced. Each revolution of an incorrectly aligned
wheel can scuff off tread rubber, reduce tire mileage, and
impair steering and cornering.
Front and Rear Tire Matching
Correct matching of front and rear tires is important for peak
performance and handling. Mating a new tire with a worn tire is
never a good idea. It is best to follow the Tire Selection
guidelines provided by the manufacturers and change out both
tires at the same time if possible. A new front tire with a worn
rear tire can cause instability.
Also, make sure that the tires are mounted in accordance with
the directional arrows. There are two main reasons for
directional arrows. The first of these is that some motorcycle
tires now have tread patterns that are designed for a specific
rotation for optimum performance, particularly on wet roads.
Directional arrows indicate the proper directional rotation.
Secondly, running a tire will set up a wear pattern and it might
not roll smoothly if reversed. Use the directional arrow to
re-fit a tire in its original direction.
Off-Road -It
isn't as important in dirt to have matching tire sets. Plenty of
riders even swap brands between front and rear based on their
personal preferences. When it comes to wear, if you can afford a
complete set at every change then go for it, but a front tire
will generally last as long as two rears. Again, look at the
wear markers and always err on the side of safety. Most off-road
tires are not directional and can even be reversed to stretch
additional life out of them. But, there are some, especially
soft-terrain and dual-sport meats, that can have a specific
rotational tread pattern. Always make sure to pay attention to
any arrows or markers on the sidewall and obey them.
Don't Mix and Match Bias and Radial Tires
Bias and radial tires have significantly different dynamic
properties. Bias. bias belted and radial tires have different
construction types and therefore have different abilities to
carry side and peripheral forces as well as having varied
damping characteristics. The introduction of radial tires
required changes to certain characteristics of the motorcycle.
The development of the radial tire led to frame modifications,
new steering geometries and suspensions. That's why it is
recommended that a motorcycle be used with the type of tire
construction that it came with originally. Do not mix bias ply
and radial tires on the same motorcycle unless it has the
approval of the motorcycle or tire manufacturer.
Tread Pattern and Compound
Tread pattern is the outer part of the tire and in contact with
the road. The profile of a tire and the rubber compound chosen
is based on the use of the tire. Generally,street
motorcycle tireswith
a harder rubber compound get better gas mileage but don't stick
to the road as well. The softer the rubber compound, the
grippier a tire is, at the sacrifice of gas mileage.
Tread has everything to do with the circumstances you'll be
driving in most. A treadless racing slick will stick to the road
like glue but is useless in the rain. Tread is needed for
traction in wet conditions. That's why off-road tires have a
very high tread. It enables them to maintain traction in the mud
and deal with the adverse geography of off-road riding.
Tread builds up heat within a tire and reduces its
effectiveness. An all-round tire has a light tread with a
medium-hard compound base. This arrangement allows it to travel
many miles without breaking down fast and provides stability in
varying conditions.
Off-Road -Depending
on where you ride, there is ultimately a tire compound best
suited to your needs. Ranging from soft compounds for hard
terrain to hard compounds for digging up that spongy loam, the
type of rubber you use will directly affect your off-road
performance. There is a difference in tread pattern and lug
depth as well. Obviously, each tire is a bit different from any
other, but aside from the normal variations, there's a big
change in recent years due to the development of modern
4-strokes. Different power delivery and handling characteristics
have led tire manufacturers to build specific 4-stroke treads.
These meats typically have a wider tread pattern and an
increased amount of lugs, especially on the sides. It's not to
say that these tires won't work for 2-strokes, or vice-versa,
but the specialized designs are becoming more available as the
tire industry catches up to the new technology.
Tubes
When putting on a new tire that requires a tube, slap on a new
tube at the same time. Old tubes become stretched, and if an old
tube is fitted in a new tire, it can crease and eventually fail
due to thinning of the tube rubber. Tubes should be repaired
only by an expert.
Always match the size markings on tubes to the tire. Don't fit
tubes in radial motorcycle tires and don't fit radials on rims
requiring tubes unless the tubes bear matching size and radial
(R) markings.
Load-Carrying Capabilities
Tires come with different load-carrying capacities. Read your
owner's manual. It will list accessory restrictions and a
motorcycle's load capacity. The maximum load figures are also
molded on the tire sidewall. Before a trip, determine the total
weight of luggage, equipment, and rider(s) to be added to the
motorcycle. Be careful not to under-inflate tires which will
reduce the bike's load-carrying capability.
Trailers can also cause extreme tire stresses and overloads that
can cause irreversible damage and result in sudden tire failure
and accidents. Most tire manufacturers do not recommend the use
of trailers and will not warrant tires used on bikes fitted with
trailers.
ThisLoad
Index Tablewill
tell you how many pounds a tire can handle depending on its
index rating. This load rating is often stamped on the side of
the tire or you can consult your trusty owner's manual.
Breaking in New Tires
Give yourself a little time to get used to the way your new
tires perform. When worn tires are replaced with differently
patterned or constructed tires, they are not going to ride the
same.
When new tires are fitted, give them a break-in distance of at
least 100 miles. That means avoid revving the engine up to
maximum power, don't tilt too far leaning into a turn or blast
into corners. This gives riders time to get the feel of the new
tires, to find the edge, and will give them ample opportunity to
find the best road grip for a range of speeds, acceleration and
handling use. After your first big ride, check and adjust the
tire's inflation to recommended levels after it has cooled for
at least three hours.
Off-Road -A
new dirt tire can be toast in 100 miles. The break in period for
off-road is as quick as your learning curve can handle. You
still need to be careful at first and get used to some of the
grip qualities and handling characteristics so that you don't
overestimate the available traction.
Take Care of Your New Tires
These are not your tires' friends:
Sunlight - Tires stored in direct sunlight for long periods of
time will harden and age more quickly than those kept in a dark
or dimly lit area.
Oil and Gasoline - Prolonged contact with oil or gasoline causes
contamination of the rubber compound. Wipe off any oil or
gasoline immediately with a clean rag. This warning applies to
corrosives or non-rubber compatible liquids as well. Avoid
cleaners or dressings like Armor All. These may degrade the
rubber and remove ozone cracking and weather-checking
resistance. If you've got raised tires with sidewalls, white
stripes or raised white lettering, which are common oncruiser
motorcycle tires,
use a mild soap solution to clean them up and then rinse with
plain water.
Always seek expert inspection of the tire after plunking a curb,
pothole or whenever you run over something hard. If a bulge
appears, or if tire pressure decreases, don't ride on it. Take
it in and have your local dealer check it out.
How to Read a Tire
With all the numbers and letters on the side of a tire, it's
easy to get confused, so here is the basic breakdown of what
each one designates.
Metric Designations
130/90 - 16 67 H
130=Tire width (mm)
90 = Aspect Ratio (90%)
16 =Rim Diameter (in.)
67 = Load Rating
H =Speed Rating
Alphabetical Designations
MT 90 - 16 Load Range B
M=Motorcycle Code
T=Tire Width Code
90=Aspect Ratio (90%)
16=Rim Diameter (in.)
Load Range B=Load Rating
Inch Designations
5.00 H 16 4PR
5.00=Section Width
H=Speed Rating
16=Rim Diameter (in.)
4PR=Casing Strength (ply rating)
Speed Ratings
If you're going to be stuffing the saddlebags for a long trip or
plan on taking your honey on a nice road trip, the added weight
is going to change the handling characteristics of your bike.
Luckily, the good people at the International Standards
Organization (ISO) have researched how much pressure needs to be
in a tire when a bike is carrying extra weight and provides
riders with the results of their findings in the form of the ISO
Load/Speed Index.
This code, when present, appears after the size marking. The
code is made up of three characters-- two numbers and a letter.
So, if your tire is stamped like this - 130/90 - 16 67 H - then
the Load/Speed Index is the 67 H. The two-digit number is a code
for the maximum load carrying capacity of the tire. The letter
is a maximum speed rating and lets you know the highest speed at
which the tire may be used safely with a full load when the
maximum listed tire inflation pressure is used.
Sometimes tires won't have the Load/Speed Index listed at the
end. They sometimes use the letters below stamped in between the
width and the wheel diameter. The following table lists the
speed ratings for each category of tire. The speed rating means
that when a tire is pumped up to the maximum inflation pressure
when carrying a load, the tire will perform safely up to a
designated speed. The amount of pressure that needs to be in the
tire, the maximum load that specific tire can handle and the
highest speed you can travel at safely on that tire is stamped
on the sidewall for you. You just need to know how to understand
the code. Click this link to see a list ofspeed
ratings.
A couple of quick notes... Certain "V" or "VR" rated tires may
have a speed capacity greater then 149mph (240kph). Check with
your local tire distributor for maximum speed information if
your motorcycle exceeds this speed capability.
Tires also come with a Z or ZR rating. These are
high-performance tires built for speed. When they are pumped up
to the max, the tire is will roll safely with the maximum marked
sidewall load at sustained speeds in excess of 149mph and up to
a speed determined by the tire manufacturer when installed on a
specific motorcycle. Again, check with your local tire
manufacturer to get these numbers.
And don't think that putting on a tire with a higher rating will
upgrade your bike's performance. When a motorcycle manufacturer
decides on the tires for a particular model, they make sure that
the speed rating of the tire meets the maximum speed capability
of the motorcycle. If you fit higher speed-rated tires, there is
a good chance that you will sacrifice some other performance
aspect such as mileage. This being the case, it is usually best
to stay with the speed rating of the original tires.
.jpg)
.jpg)
